In what is either a bold and surreal or a foolhardy and grim travel choice, we have elected to return to Iceland. What would be foolish about that, you might say? If you were me, you might be especially thrilled because Iceland is fast becoming my favorite place ever. But, here’s the thing: we’re going to go in December.

What the hell are we thinking?

This time around, I don’t think it will be brilliantly light when we land at 6:45 in the morning

Allow me to Rebut

• Rebuttal the first: Airfare. Round-trip tickets from Seattle to Keflavík on Icelandair were $475, nonstop, inclusive of tax. How about them apples?
• Rebuttal the second: The flight is barely longer than getting to the east coast. It makes a west-coaster feel almost like an east-coaster in relation to Europe. You can, like, go there for a long weekend. Which we are.
• Rebuttal the third: This will allow me either a) disabuse myself of romantic Icelandic yearnings (by finding out the truth of the damp, dark winters) or b) Help me cement my Great Love for the Place.

This Time, With Victims

We’re going with our good friends Kes and Aileen, and their daughter (my goddaughter). I sort of wonder if taking a 2-year-old to the northern island is wise: she may well turn into a sprite or a seal-headed goddess. Or the goblins might take her. Aileen reacts to the whole winter solstice thing with maniacal glee: Oh, boy, she seems to grin; it’s going to be dark all the time. That is so awesome! Of course I am paraphrasing, but she seems really into the peculiarity of the darkness. I on the other hand am slightly nervous of it, but fascinated nonetheless.

Weird, appealing Hallgrímskirkja is but a few blocks from the hotel we’ll be at