This Desert Thing: A Continuing Interlude

January 29, 2009

Ten or twelve long miles south of Bend, Ore., on US 97 is a resort community called Sunriver, which most of you know already because you have been there with me, at times. Sunriver is one of those places that lacks its own meaning and is instead a pastiche of things that happen between people who go there. It is, in fact, almost breathtaking in its inherent vapidity. Its footprint is several square miles of fractal cul-de-sacs and loops, organic shaped Moebius strips of  roads that reject all notions of right angles. There is no way to know where you are, ever, and this is compounded by scads of numbered traffic circles that eject more roads off at random, soft angles. I doubt I have ever been to the same place twice in Sunriver, or if I have, I probably wouldn’t know it. There are about ninety five trillion vacation rental houses and they are all entirely identical. That’s not entirely true. But they have unsettling conceptual similarity: rustic, shitty decor in shades of dreamcatcher and sad early-90s hunter green; vaulted ceilings and dreadful southwest-themed dinnerware and carpeted stairs. Every vacation home in Sunriver sleeps about threescore people in grim, vast chambers full of bunkbeds. The hot tubs are always, always, always two to three degrees too much on the luke side of warm and the rental agency or owners leave laminated, uptight lists of instructions left next to each appliance or thing that can catch fire or dent.

Last weekend I was in Sunriver with David and we were looking for spring-fed headwaters to an eponymously-named river nearby and I saw that Sunriver had a school, which I knew but had forgotten. It occasioned a consideration that there must be at least five or six people who actually live in Sunriver year-round. That must be a very singular lifestyle, fulfilling quotidian needs in the well-hidden service park, mastering the non-Euclidean, serpentine layout. Perhaps they travel in secret, linear underground tunnels and smirk secretly at the rest of us. Alternately, perhaps one day I will encounter a disheveled, long-lost Sunriver resident who has been trying to find his way back to Ridgeview #7 for two decades. Maybe the joke’s on us. Maybe Sunriver is not just a staging area for outdoor desert activities. Perhaps there is a portal to another universe off of Circle 12. Maybe the residents are in fact millennia old and truly enlightened. Let me stress: the place is a goddamned Gordian knot of houses and roads. I wish to find an Alexander who can make sense of it for me, though I fear that underneath the geographical complexity might lurk a sucking void. Sunriver is utopia in the strictest sense of the word; utopia (non-idiomatically) means “no place.”

If you look at the important things in life as having two sides–the concrete and the spiritual–Sunriver is the third, at least with respect to the desert. It is the emptiness onto which things are written, the context for the syntax of the meaningful (or maybe the syntax for the context of the meaningful). It has a lot of nice bike lanes and Ponderosas. The weather is nearly always perfect, if cold. Sunriver is the inverse of the rest of the things about the desert, but it is simultaneously like dividing by zero. It exists/doesn’t exist. It is an imaginary number, a null, an empty string.

Why do I ruminate on the meaningless, then, you might ask? Because it was in Sunriver, in a house I’ll never be able to find again, that I first saw David.

  1. Catherine from Cork says:

    Lyza, I have many good memories from your wedding in the dessert – like those encapsulated in the picture of you and Mr Pencil which shows up on your blog banner now and then. But a memory of a different type is Annie driving around Sunriver trying to find and get through to the house we were staying in. We were yelling at each other in frustration over the roundabouts, screwy signs and identical structures. I remember distinctly at one point we figured out where the house was, we could see it from a distance but we could not find the roadway to it! We just sat in the car looking at it across a wide grassy space. Pearl sat in the back of the car smiling sweetly. Gordian knots in no place sums it up alright. We finally did find our way and our better tempers. But such an odd feeling to love the nature there (we saw deer, squirrels, chipmunks, etc.), the heat, the smell of the trees and yet to be so no where. Controlled but empty of meaning.

  2. Peat says:

    I have a few distinct memories from visiting Sunriver as a kid. I had my first pomegranate, ate too many cinnamon gummy bears, and was almost run down by a security van while biking near the airport. Everything else is just a blur of pine cones, manicured gravel trails, and golf courses.

  3. autumn says:

    i feel like this utter lack of any presence, or character, or ambient meaning is critical to the type and kind of experiences i seem to have there. time always moves in a sort of languid tidal drift, and it becomes wholly about the people i am with and what we are creating together. which is both rare, and heady.

  4. Mikey Mike says:

    Oooh, you hit it on the nail, as they don’t say, gah! too mad to type about the hot tubs, they are either completely frigging borken, see, the year we all ran to the other house in our various swimming costumes, or have some “rule” or internal flaw that only allows them up to 102 degrees and then some kind of meltdown requiring the rental company guy to come “reset” them. That’s not hot enough! I’m not an infant, I’m a drunken 37 year old improvident lackwit, and I want to boil in that sumbitch! I was once in Massachusetts and a Boston couple wouldn’t stop whinging about the hotel hot tub being too hot! Shut up! Get in the pool if it’s too hot, damn!

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